I have no idea. Yes it could definitely be a fuse that caused your game to stop working. We would recommend checking your fuses, power supply, kill switches and power switch.
The issue could be caused by any one of these parts. Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your progress. I just recently purchased a Super Pac Man arcade. Everything looks and works good except one thing. After the machine is in continous operation for 10 or 15 minutes, a low-pitched intermittant thumping sound is from the speaker. Is there a way to fix this? Also… sometimes the top third of whats on the screen waves over to one direction so that it looks bent.
Thanks in advance for any answers you give. It comes up on the screen. No matter what buttons I press nothing happens. I have a Defender game and last night all the controls on decided to stop working.
When I re-powered up the machine the self test says that everything is OK. Any suggestions on where to start on this troubleshoot? Your Super Pac Man sounds issue could be caused by a couple of problems.
We would recommend starting with the vertical hum section that we link to and then moving down to the Sound Problems section. This site should give you some great ideas about how to fix your sound issues.
First off, there is really no good way to remove screen burn from a tube. We usually recommend just replacing your old tube with a new tube. That being said, however, you can hide the screen burn by using a piece of dark plexiglass over the screen. We use this trick a lot of times on old Pac Man machines as they usually have a lot of screen burn.
Second, the curl or bend that your experiencing can be related to the adjustments or could be a capacitor issue. Check out our post on Adjusting An Arcade Monitor for more information on the adjustments. See our post on Installing A Cap Kit for more information.
Third, it could be that your Carrier Air Wings board is set to free play while your Bionic Commando board is not. You might try coining up the game to see if it will allow you to play. You can do this by pushing the thin wire down on the back of your coin mechanism. This will simulate putting a quarter in the machine. After you coin it you should be able to start the game.
Defender has an input board that all of the controls are wired to. It could be that this board is bad and needs replacement. You should also check your ground wires going to your controls to make sure they are making a good connection.
These wires are usually daisy chained which means that one disconnect in this wire could cause all of your controls to stop working. Recently purchased mortal Kombat I and can not get it out of free play. I recently bought a donkey kong jr. Any ideas on why this would be happening. Thank you. Just found this web site, great info! Thanks for the help! The dip switches are little switches on the board that control things such as amount of coins per play and difficulty.
According to MikesArcade. It could be a problem with some of the logic chips on the board. You could get a logic probe and go through these chips to see if any of them are not putting out the proper signals. A bootleg board is an unauthorized copy of an original game board.
While these boards are copies, they tend to have some differences from the original. First off, we recommend checking the connection between the board and the monitor. We would specifically look at the red wire to make sure that it is making a good connection to the pin on the chassis.
Also, check to make sure that the pin itself is making a good connection to the monitor chassis. These pins have been known to come loose after several years of disconnecting and reconnecting the connector.
If the connection is good, we would then start to suspect the red adjustment pots on the monitor. You might try refreshing the solder to make sure they are also making a good connection to the monitor chassis.
You can also check the tube like we talk about in our post on Checking A Monitor Tube to see if the red is working. As for your second question, the majority of game reset issues are usually related to the power supply. Get a multimeter and make sure that your power supply is putting out the correct voltage to the game board. I have a Gaplus Galaga 3 Arcade machine has no sound but the explosion when ship is hit and I hear the explosion when system boots up too.
Game plays fine. Found JW4 was cut off and D had a cold solder joint on the power supply. So now I have 12 vdc going to the main board as well as 5vdc. I touched the pins on the LA audio amp chip and get a hum. RM2 on main board has resistance at each leg pair dip switch A S5 on or off has no effect. Any help or direction Thank you. I can not believe this. Lets keep the arcade games alive. I have the 60 in 1 Jamma board. Is this the future … What a shame but no parts no parts. You might try contacting our friend Raymond at Arcade Components to see if he can help you out with your Gaplus board.
Hope that helps. Hello I have a space invader machine that comes on and shows what looks like space invaders on the screen all messed up. But it just sets there and does nothing no matter what do. I have checked all connectors, solder and so on any ideals on what it might be?
You might try rebuilding your power supply. I did check the capacitors and none are putting out what should so will go ahead and try new caps. If you know that the power is working, for example, then you have one less thing to worry about. Thanks for the tips. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Just going on what you described, however, it sounds like the problem could be related to the video ROM on the Pole Position board.
Dick Millikan is pretty well known for his ability to repair Pole Position problems if this is indeed the cause of your issue. If the problem is related to your board, a new monitor would not help. If you plan on keeping this game for several years, it is always a good idea to put a new monitor in it. As far as replacing a monitor goes, it is not too difficult at all. This usually consists of removing four bolts from the front of the monitor, a video connector coming from the board and the power connector.
It is recommended you have at least 2 people when attempting this repair. In our experience, it usually takes us under an hour to fully replace a monitor. With that being said, most buttons work on the same principles that we discuss in our video on Wiring A Push Button. Please send us some pictures so we can assist you further on this issue. I have replaced the pot that adjusts the vertical positioning. Any idea where to begin? The monitor has been recapped by someone before.
It sounds like you are having a problem in your vertical IC chip on your monitor chassis. This problem is fairly common and is pretty easy to fix.
You want to start off by finding the vertical section of your monitor chassis. There is usually a yellow wire that comes off of your tube and connects to the chassis, the vertical section should be located somewhere around that yellow wire.
In the vertical section, there should be an IC chip. Sounds like this chip has failed and has caused your problem. Replace this and that should fix your problem.
Look for it to be posted on our website soon. Thank you for your question and good luck with this and all of your future projects.
I have a Leathal Enforcers II game that has had very little use as I bought it from the orginal owner a year ago and it sat in his living room all that time.
No problems until last night. I used it for one game and it worked fine except the audio was out on one of the speaker speaker works on L. II When I turned on the game last night, I heard an odd sound and it turns out on the monitor I am getting about a one blue inch arc…loud and crackling.
I unplugged the board completely and when I turned back on the power it still was arcing? Any thoughts? More info on the location of the arcing… if you follow the wire with the suction cup on the monitor to where it meets or is connected to the chasis… that component is what is arching. Well the first thing we would do is unplug just our monitor from our power supply and try to turn the game on. Hopefully you will start to hear board sounds.
If you do, that tells us that your board is still working and that just your monitor was damaged. The arcing that you see is probably related to the flyback, however, it is hard to be sure without taking a look at the monitor chassis. Please let us know if this is the route you want to go or if you would like us to continue helping you troubleshoot this problem.
Thank you for your question and good luck with this repair. It came via FedEx freight. We have had it for 3 days now, never even took it off of the pallet yet, just pushed the pallet back against the garage wall and plugged it in.
It worked great the first day, last night I noticed about a 5 inch semi-circle of washed out color at the top of the screen. The graphics were there, but the colors were sort of faded. This morning, the monitor is black. The top light board is lit and fine, but the monitor is black and pushing buttons does not bring sound. We unplugged it, counted to ten, plugged it back, nothing came on except the lit graphic at the top of the arcade machine.
We are heartbroken! The picture is perfect on this newly rebuilt original Sanyo 20ez monitor. It is sharp, vibrant, bright, and beautiful. The buttons are brand new and the joystick is original.
All controls work. The light fixture has been replaced with a new one. The T-molding is also new. To me, this meant a good machine with plenty of play time. We had the machine plugged into the garage outlet continuously since it arrived 3 days. It snowed last night first white Christmas in Dallas for over 80 years. It appears the machine is making sounds and playing games when buttons are pushed, but the monitor is completely black.
Any chance that as the temp warms outside the monitor will come back to us? Hello, I just purchased a cocktail sized Centipede. The gentleman I purchased it from has owned it for some time and had no issues with it. However after getting it home, I let it warm up at his suggestion for two hours at room temperature.
We were able to play for about an hour and a half before the screen started scrolling and flickering. It reset itself to the start screen and continued to scroll. If you shut it off for a short period of time, say 30 minutes and turn it back on you cant quite get through one whole game before it begins to flicker and scroll. Seems to only happen when warm, so I took the back panel off and pulled the service button so the game would stay on and put a fan behind it to cool it and it made no difference.
Checked all connections and everything seems to be attached securely. There is no discoloration to the screen, and the sounds works as it should. It was transported on its left side for the two hour ride to my brothers home and again moved the next day for 15 minutes to my fathers home where it sat on its side overnight in 20 degree temperatures as it was a Christmas gift yesterday.
Thanks in advance. Also it is an original cabinet, Atari First off, we apologize for not getting back to you sooner. We took a short vacation over the Christmas and New Years holidays and are just now getting around to answering our questions. Before trying to troubleshoot this issue, we would first try and contact the seller to see if they could help us. Many times eBay sellers are more than willing to work out a deal on issues such as these.
With that being said, this really sounds like a monitor issue. First thing we would check is to make sure the monitor is plugged it from the bottom of the cabinet and is getting power. Try these troubleshooting tips out and let us know if it fixes your problem. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your issue.
Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair. Sounds like you might be having a couple of issues here. The screen flipping issue is probably related to your arcade monitor and can usually be fixed with a simple adjustment. We recommend checking out our post on Adjusting An Arcade Monitor for more information on how to adjust the hold on your monitor.
The game resetting issue, however, is probably related to your power supply. Your power supply might be older than the one in the video so it might be a good idea to refer to the manual on this game if you have it. On the left side on my street fighter 2 upright I have vertical lines of discoloration.
Someone said it needed new gas in it? They are about 1 inch wide and are just discolored lighter than the rest of the screen. Thank you for any advice. Hi I hope you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a Tekken 2 arcade game thats having monitor issues. It seems to come on for maybe 3 seconds and immediatly shuts off. I know its coming on because the neck lights up and then goes off,but everything else functions as it should.
Also have a space invaders game that seems to not boot at all. Screen has wierd objects on it ,have no sound. I tried cleaning connections to the board but still no luck. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim. Then once it warms up the screen starts to wave and fade to white.
Seems like that might be heat related as once cooled down again it functions as normal except the bottom of the screen. The dials on the adjustment board for the monitor wont let adjustment go any future. The picture can kind of come back but never to the same quality more of a hazy white. This sounds a lot like a bad cap on your monitor chassis probably located in the horizontal or power sections.
We would recommend doing a cap kit on the monitor. Please check out our post on Installing A Cap Kit for more information. If you need some help identifying your monitor, please send some pictures to us at questions arcaderepairtips. Thank you for your question and let us know if you have any others in the future. I had trouble with it at first and was sent new parts under warranty—monitor and chassis were replaced and ultimately the jamma board had to be replaced because it had shorted out.
It was not secured to the bottom of the table, but lose inside and the tech thinks it might have touched metal and blown itself out. Would you recommend turning it off at the end of each day or leaving it on? It does cycle through the games, so is burn in still a factor? Also, it retains the high scores, but the initials we enter into individual games are all wiped clean when we turn it off and back on—will that always happen? Thanks in advance! Before I remove the monitor board to send it in for repair, is there anything else I should check first?
On the Tekken 2, we would suggest unplugging your board, turning on the cabinet and see if the monitor shuts off without the board hooked up. Try turning the brightness and contrast up so that your monitor has a white screen. This should allow you to easily identify if the monitor goes off.
If your monitor goes off then you are definitely having a monitor issue. Try a cap kit on the monitor chassis if the monitor is faulty. Otherwise you might start looking at the board, power supply or wiring for your problem. On the Space Invaders, the weird objects that you are seeing on your screen are caused by board issues. Alex specializes in Space Invaders boards.
He has some information on his site that might help you out with your issue. He will also repair your board if you cannot figure it out on your own. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your issues. Thank you for your questions and keep us updated on your repairs.
First off, we would really like to see some pictures of your monitor screen and chassis as this would help us troubleshoot this issue better. That being said, it definitely sounds like you are having a monitor issue. The cause of your issue could be cold solder joints.
You might try reflowing the solder to see if it helps your issues at all. We would also recommend a cap kit as this could be caused by a faulty cap. Please see our post on Installing A Cap Kit for more information. If your monitor is a Wells Gardner monitor, you can try calling them directly.
Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on this issue. Thank you for your questions and good luck with your repair. We typically recommend turning off your machines when you are not using them. If you do turn them on, however, we would let them run for a bit before turning them off. The start up can be pretty hard on an arcade game and leaving it running for a bit before turning them off can help.
Also, moving games can cause issues so try to avoid this when possible. Screen burn should not be an issue with the attract mode going on your board. If the original game on the In-1 board supported high score saves then it should work on the In-1 board and vice-versa. There might also be some test mode settings you can adjust to get this to work as well. Check your In-1 board manual for more information on the test mode.
Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your questions. Thank you for your questions and enjoy playing your cocktail cabinet. Hello — Great web site. Not sure if you can help. I have a Cherry Master, I bought it broke and realized that an eprom was not in correct. When I got it home, I pulled the eprom and then put back in. It fired up and worked for about a month. Now — since it stopped again, the monitor is black, when it powers on, The bill collector will sound off but nothing else happens.
I do notice that sometimes when I click the reset on the mother board that some of the buttons will flash. I have to turn off to stop the flashing. I first thought that my monitor had gone bad but I would think that all else would sound and play if that was the issue.
I bought a centipede game a few years ago. The screen now is blue when I turn it on and nothing else happens. Any idea what this means? It is kept in my basement where the dehumidifier runs off and on all year.
This is my first stand up arcade game and am clueless as how the insides work. I do have a manual. My son is now old enough that he wants to play it, so I figured I should get it fixed. Thanks again! Please see our post on Adjusting An Arcade Monitor for more information. Also, you might try taking your tube to a TV repair man to see if he can test it for you.
If this problem is being caused by a bad tube he should be able to tell. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your question.
Thank you for your question and good luck repairing your San Francisco Rush. Hello, I have a Midway Pigskin game that I cannot get the monitor to stop scrolling vertically on. I have replaced the main board,the power supply and tried to adjust the v-hold with no help. I can almost get it to hold but it either scrolls up or down. The game works great other than this! Any help? If i feed the chassis a 31khz signal through the db15 connector i hear the monitor click as it changes resolution, remove the feed, it clicks again.
Sounds like you are having some board issues. You could try physically inspecting the board to see if there are any chips that need to be resocketed.
If you are comfortable around a soldering iron, you could also try reflowing the solder on the board. If you continue to have problems after that, we would recommend either sending it off for repair or getting another board altogether.
Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your status. This sounds like it could be a related to a couple of different areas. We would probably start off by replacing the vertical hold potentiometer on your monitor chassis. We had a similar problem with a Super Mario Bros and it turned out to be a bad potentiometer. Replacing a potentiometer is pretty much the same process as replacing a capacitor and is a good starting place for this problem.
If these wires are not making a good connection it can also cause problems such as this. Thank you for your question and please keep us updated on the status of this issue. We had a very similar problem with a Tokyo Cop that had a Nanao monitor in it. Our problem turned out to be the filter capacitor that was located right in the middle of the chassis.
You might check this cap before moving on to other troubleshooting. If you install the cap kit and you are still having problems, then your flyback is probably the culprit. Thank you for your question and please keep us updated on your status with this issue. While we are not too familiar with Cherry Master games in particular, they are pretty similar to a regular arcade game. This really sounds like a problem with your board.
You could try reflowing the solder on the board especially around that eprom chip you were having the problems with. You might also check to make sure that the harness is making a good connection with the board. The good news is that Cherry Master boards are usually pretty reasonable on eBay. Please let us know if you continue to have issues and if we can assist you further.
The monitor turns on fine and then shuts off after a couple seconds. After turning it on and off many times, it will stay on just fine. The large capacitor is bulged on top and the flyback casing on the board looks as though it has started leaking. What do I need to replace? Thanks a lot! I replaced the Power and bought a full Bob Roberts Rebuld kit.
Relaced all Caps and flyback including the and I check some of the gray diodes? Are these bad. Anyways still no glow on the tube neck and I seem to be the same place as I started. Thanks Aaron. Just a quick question for you. Anyways, the machine is working fine for now. However, if I turn it off, when I turn it back on, I have to reset all of my preferences ie.
Let me know which option is better for making the machine last longer and also whether there is a way to save my options even when I do turn it off. The chassis seems to be ok, but I can see high voltage arcing around the yoke. Have you seen this before, do I need a new picture tube? I was connecting the speaker wires from the cab to the monitor and I let a speaker wire fall.
It draped along the metal shroud on the neck board and now I get no picture. Also, connected to the metal shroud are wires coming from the degaussing coils. I hear small a squeal coming from the speaker amp area and on the ir board, the power led reamins lit but I cannot power it up. We definitely recommend replacing that bulging capacitor and the leaking flyback. Try installing this kit on your chassis and let us know how it turns out.
Sounds like you have replaced most of the parts that we recommend replacing. This really narrows the problem down to the power supply section of your chassis. Of course, make sure that you are getting power into the monitor from the isolation transformer or power supply.
If you are getting power then look on the chassis where the power come in. See if you can identify any problems around this section. We would also like to see some pictures of your chassis so that we might help you troubleshoot this further. NFL Blitz boards usually have a battery on the board that it uses to save your settings. It sounds like this battery is bad and needs to be replaced. This battery is usually located in the middle of the board.
We recommend removing this battery and taking it to your local electronics store to see if they have a replacement. After your replace this battery it should save your settings.
As you said, the components are only made to last so long and when you have power going to them you are taking away from their life expectancy. Turning your game off will also save on your electric bill which is always a good thing with summer coming up. Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your repair.
First off, we are not big fans of the Kortek monitors as we have had problems in the past with their reliability. That being said, however, it does sound like you need a new tube. There is a really good article on 8liners. Please check out this article for more details on replacing tubes. We are also curious as to what arcade game this monitor is in. Give us a shout back and let us know. To make a long story short, I purchased an NBA Jam arcade today and had to use a friends truck to move it.
The machine was covered with a tarp, however during the move it began to rain and some water managed to get inside. So…we fired it on and it played flawlessly for about minutes, then the screen went black. Music and sounds still worked perfect, just no picture. Could the water have cause a short in the wiring?
How long should I leave the machine unplugged before trying to turn it on again? With that being said, this could be many things. If the power supply is good then we would try and locate the fuse on the chassis to see if it is blown.
Check both of these to see if they are good and replace as needed. Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your progress. Yes, this problem could have been caused by your cabinet getting wet. It sounds like your monitor has gone out which could have been caused by a number of things. If this problem was caused by the cabinet getting wet then you might be in luck.
We recommend checking the fuses around both your power supply at the bottom of your cabinet and your monitor chassis. Also, make sure that there is power going up to the monitor. It could be that the power wires going to your monitor came loose during the move.
If all of your fuses are good and you seem to be getting power up to your monitor then we need to take a closer look at your monitor chassis. Worse case scenario would involve replacing the majority of parts on your monitor chassis or getting a new one altogether.
I currenty just brought home a Donkey Kong Jr. I was told that there was something wrong with it when I purchased it. When I turn it on, there is a thin white line on the monitor.
If they are not, you might have to order a replacement. The type of fuse is imprinted into one of the metal caps of the fuse, stating the Amperage ex. Those numbers will vary — simply locate a fuse that uses the exact statistics. What is available in fuses locally will vary but if all else fails you can order correct fuses from an online electronics retailer.
After all, we need to perform diagnostics on the machine; we need it to think the door is closed so that electricity to the components is not cut off. If there is no power coming in through the cord, you might have a problem with the outlet, or with some of the elements listed above. If there IS power coming on, we need to then ensure that it is reaching both the controls and the monitor.
If the above-mentioned steps all fail to yield results, then your PCB might be faulty and could require being serviced by a professional or being replaced entirely.
If the plug is fine, then move on to the monitor itself. If you have an older CRT type monitor, then please verify if the cathode tube has a glow when receiving power. However, if there IS a glow, then consider cranking up the brightness setting on the monitor to see if you can get an image.
If all else fails, you might want to find a different compatible monitor, and plug it into the PCB of the cabinet, in order to confirm or discard the possibility of a faulty monitor or PCB.
If this is the case, then consider following the above steps from the monitor section down. If the volume setting is fine, then please check the Jamma cable that goes all the way to the speakers to verify that it is not frayed, severed, or damaged in any way.
If the cable is fine, then consider hooking up an extra speaker to the machine, to discard the possibility of a faulty speaker.
If you have faulty buttons or joysticks, you might have a problem with the cords underneath. Start off by checking the ground wires the black ones that are connected from each microswitch to the joysticks and to the jamma connector, in a loop.
Furthermore, check if the ground wires are properly attached to the jamma connector since any damage or alterations to this sector will also break the loop. To test if the switch is faulty, connect its respective colored wire and the black ground wire together.
Now boot up a game.
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